I know I am not the most faithful of fans, but I always look and I am always happily surprised when Tomas Maier hits the mark and this season he hit it out of the park. I really love this collection; it sure does look chic and he sure found a way to show off the skills of his factories. The tailoring aspect is with little competition; it is impeccable and flawless in design and execution. The “chalk marking” is just wonderful if looked at as a technical feat as well as displaying a rare sense of humor. I was just loving so much of that whether on a suit, outerwear or shirt. I am in love.
The suede shirts|sweaters were just exquisite; one could see the suppleness and lightweight quality as well as, again, almost unrivaled workmanship that goes into the making of these pieces. Then we go to the knitwear which is also beyond the pale. A lot of it had a graphic quality to it and yet my favorite was the “confetti cable,” which reminded me of confetti due to the seemingly random knitting of the cables and the loose stitches revealing the white from the underpinnings… Whew!
Kudos to you, Tom, on this whole edging, graphic, and tongue-in-cheek attitude of the collection and while parts were amusing, it was never ever a joke. It is only when one revisits the photos, it is then that one realizes that many times you “chalk out” the details on a top or jacket and then later on render it in reality with all the same details… Brilliant indeed!
So Tom, it was really fabulous and even the pants looked great without any gimmicks except for the self-belt. What I love about these kinds of collections from you is that when I like them, I really love them as you just hammer it with great ease- such a wonderful display of what luxury top tier clothes should be. | Jeffrey Felner
pictures via Giovanni Giannoni