Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi of Gianfranco Ferré produced in Milan a provocative collection for Autumn|Winter 2013. Cropped trousers were paired with loosely-fitted blouses, jackets, and coats. Layering was the key to the look. Citron and Piaggi chose a palette of black, white, chocolate, caramel, and violet-tinged deep blue, highlighting the draping very much in evidence and details such as wonderfully exaggerated cuffs on blouses.
It must be said that this season, Ferré could easily have been mistaken for Haider Ackermann (which may or may not be what Citron and Piaggi had in mind), perhaps an element of the “new start” the design house is aiming for. Another appears to be a subtle Japanese influence, which was in the form of obi-style belts worn with nearly everything. One standout was a black cape that flowed effortlessly down the runway.
Other favorite looks include a coat in the most delicate shade of creamy beige, lapels sharply defined, shoulders soft, harmonious lines, and unusually defined cuffs. Another was a long white jacket on top of Ackermann-style draping, worn with matching cropped trousers. Dresses either ended a distance above the knee or fell close to the floor – or hit it, slits to mid-thigh. Overall, a drama-infused yet minimal collection. | Katja Anderson
pictures courtesy Davide Maestri