Dolce and Gabbana looked back in time for their stellar Autumn|Winter 2013 ready-to-wear collection, back to Byzantium. Sumptuous. Jeweled icons seemingly everywhere, instantaneously reminding one of the magnificent mosaics at Ravenna. This would have been extraordinary in and of itself, but to be followed by a classic 1950s style within moments made this show utterly unique. After the feast of jeweled tones and floating silhouettes were tailored dresses and suits in gray or black wool, loose enough to be ladylike, but tight enough to show off the feminine form (as Edith Head might have said).
There were several 1950s-style matching coats and dresses – all in black – moving slightly forward in fashion history as well as an exceptional black lace dress, inspired perhaps by the wardrobe Chanel designed personally for L’Année Dernière à Marienbad (1961). The show closed with a profusion of jeweled red dresses in various lengths – from hovering a few inches below the hips to skimming the knees. Sheer fabrics, a wealth of lace, beautiful colors, and the palpable delight in femininity that marks the fashion house made this a very pleasing collection. | Katja Anderson
pictures courtesy Filippo Fior