Paris Fashion Week: Maxime Simoëns – Autumn|Winter 2013

Here’s a novelty… a one man think tank! I have been watching Mr. Simoëns since his momentary collaboration at Leonard and now that LVMH has bought a stake in his small company, my interest has been piqued. I would say that the purchase was a prescient one by Monsieur Arnault as this is a young man with ideas to spare.

Please do not think that I am touting him as a wunderkind who can do no wrong as that is certainly not the case here. What I am saying is that there are a profuse amount of ideas that can be honed and developed and what might turn into signatures for the young designer. I am intrigued by his take on the shirtwaist dress as well as the polo dress|shirt, his blatant graphic qualities, and as well as by his choice of accessories, fabrications, and color palette.

I was especially taken by the hourglass-shaped embroidered short black dress, his asymmetrical skirt draped over pants, and the apparent fascination of the fit-n-flare silhouette. Yes, there are some glaring proportional errors, but that can be easily rectified. The base is very strong and I do believe that Mr. Simoëns will be destined for great things provided that he doesn’t believe his own press and doesn’t let his ego get in the way of his talents.

What is common with most new designers is that they seem to want to alter their DNA seasonally, which I am hoping will not be the case here as there is nothing quite as boring as a designer with no “look,” no recognizable signature, who just churns out trend fashion season after season. The challenge is in the building and developing of the DNA… So now the question that begs to be simply asked, “Is Maxime Simoëns up to the task of becoming a world class designer?” | Jeffrey Felner 

 

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pictures courtesy Dominique Maître

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