Canon Fashion Week Milan: Emilio Pucci – Autumn|Winter 2013

Welcome back, Mr. Dundas! I was a bit taken aback from the Pre-Fall collection for obvious reasons, but this one is a superb way of saying that you are sorry. Autumn|Winter 2013 Emilio Pucci is back to the reimagined DNA that Mr. Dundas has created. Yes the hemlines are a bit… well, not a bit… they are stratospherically hair grazingly high.

There is a certain slickness achieved here which is pretty hard to do as these are the clothes that can tread dangerously close to overtly provocative! I see these young, attractive European women who have the means and the body and want to show it off. In simple parlance, they are just seductive! Think 21st century version of Talitha Getty! Or maybe think nostalgically about Jane Birkin!

I am happy to see the return of the prints, which were absent from Pre-Fall. There is one fabulous bugle beaded tie neck number that just screeches Pucci in the most modern way possible. Yes, of course, I love the tiger|zebra print and I love that these clothes are still delicate looking despite all of the embellishments.

As stated so many times, it is an art to keep the clothes looking light. The thigh-high boots add drama to these clothes as does the entirely louche way in which they are shown… the girls all have this sort of world-weary fabulous look about them as if to say, “Yes, so I am fabulous and what of it?” This season more than most, I applaud those who stick to their guns and keep their brands going in the same direction, but in an evolutionary way rather than the revolution of what’s popular or “Will Anna and Grace like what I am doing this season?”

If nothing else here, this is a sightseeing collection… the sights are amazing and I am sure very aspirational for those who will want to wear it and very wistful for those who might have worn similar looks back in the day. The bottom line is that this is part of what makes fashion exciting and fun for everyone. | Jeffrey Felner

 

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pictures courtesy Piero Cristaldi

 

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