Let’s state the obvious here: Zuhair Murad’s collection is unabashedly, unapologetically, unmistakably, and overtly provocative. These are not the clothes for the faint of heart or for the shy retiring wallflower; these are the clothes that demand and receive attention. Mr. Murad is pretty much shocking as a designer as these clothes are beyond the pale when it comes to risqué. He operates at full throttle with maximum drama from start to finish.
He obviously is not of the less is more school and yet with all the incredible embroideries and embellishments, he remains true to himself. He is a credit to haute couture as his ateliers must have worked overtime to produce some of these wonders. There are allusions to Greek goddess dresses and in some degree Greek Mythology as well. His restraint appears only with his choice of color palette.
Mixed into all the soufflé/tulle embroidered pieces are some lighter-than-air chiffons/georgettes that can be worn by those mere mortals who have no stage aspirations on any level. What is interesting is that when he chose to omit the glitz, he chose a very Versace/Hermès inspired print which he worked with deft hand. However, the few pieces got lost in the flurry of sparkle and glitz. I know that not every single piece that Mr. Murad designs is embellished to this degree and it might be nice to see a few of those types of dresses make an appearance in the next collection.
The take-away here is simple: keep your on eye on this man as he is not a one-shot wonder and should not be counted out. This was his formal introduction to the land of Haute Couture and as far as first times go, he certainly did shine! | Jeffrey Felner
pictures courtesy Giovanni Giannoni