Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week NYC: Jason Wu – Autumn|Winter 2013

From the moment you entered the venue, the message was abundantly clear: this would be a very elegant collection. Jason Wu delivered on the message in spades! Depending on how you read signals, the message might have also been grander, but this was not about spectacle; this was about a collection that was modern, flirty, feminine and then there is that word that some read as safe or boring… SALABLE!

Mr. Wu clearly knows his client and he gave them plenty of what he has made them hunger for and that is slick, elegant, and tasteful clothes that women can relate to on so many levels. The silhouettes were clean and narrow without being severely so and the palette was about as pleasing as it can be. One can hope that this collection is a harbinger of what is to come in the coming days, demonstrating that pre-fall was indeed the warm-up of things to come.

Loving the narrow pant, the fit and flare pieces, the peplums, and a very restrained use of embellishments. The clothes speak for themselves. There was attention paid to the shoulders, the prim white collars, and the waist, but all of it in a very soft way without going to extremes to prove a point. It is a mark of self-assurance when a designer, who is as young as he, can show clothes that so silently scream what it means to be a designer.

Favorite pieces include the skirt over pant pieces ala I Love Lucy and the polka dot black on black and the peplums. I need to revisit the feathered pieces as I am totally on the fence with them, but I am intrigued by the lace pattern slick fabric used for the raincoat and parka… at least I think it was lace patterned and it might have been patterned vinyl! I adored the fact that there were no platforms on the shoes!

The take away is that the collection delivered on a spectrum of levels, but what it did not do was hit a high note; it evolved and unfolded but it never exploded! Now I sound like some fashion freak who wants to scream FIERCE! I’ll take a collection like this hands down over a few fierce unwearable dresses. | Jeffrey Felner

 

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pictures courtesy George Chinsee

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