Bravo, Stefano! Okay, I will say it again… BRAVO! I guess all things happen for a reason and here you are with your first collection for Ermenegildo Zegna and what a statement you have made! My only reservation is that the palette looks a bit more somber and like fall, but the clothes are sublime… and prove positive one more time that “designers design.”
I am so taken with this collection as there is such a great amount of nuance here and so much fashion, but none of it slaps you in the face, you have to look for it. I just adore the “crunched” cuff, the new take on a 2-button DB, some of the abbreviated jackets, and the details that you have added and subtracted on the stand-by silhouettes. I really think that you have found your home finally.
The fact that in no way did you obliterate the house DNA is more than honorable and that you have breathed a new chic into this more traditional brand is admirable. Yes, I know that each season Zegna has been moving more towards fashion statements, but for Spring|Summer 2014 you made it a headline collection. You have shown what you are made of with this collection. I am just crazy for some of the jackets|outerwear, especially your take on a “safarien” and the way you executed your pocket treatments on the outerwear, even a couple of the coats are just lust-worthy.
So Stefano, you have set the bar high for the season and I could not be happier for you and thank you for opening the season in Milan on such a high note. | Jeffrey Felner
pictures via Davide Maestri