Probably one of the most anticipated shows in New York City this Fashion Week, Mr. Oscar de la Renta’s presentation proved to be more than just about another season, another collection. This was more about the story of a fabled fashion house and the future that is to come. And although John Galliano’s tenure at Oscar de la Renta has been touted as temporary, perhaps what was witnessed instead was the beginning of the next chapter at Mr. de la Renta’s atelier. Quite possibly in a new direction.
Whether purposely done or not, the collection is strikingly a mélange of both Mr. de la Renta and Mr. Galliano. The difference is brazen. The two design styles are distinct, causing almost a divide: the classical and the contemporary, the elaborate and the minimal. However, in its own right, the collaboration’s end result is magnificent… But is it more because of Mr. de la Renta’s signature touches than Mr. Galliano’s influence? There’s a conspicuous twist on what has been the expected foundation for decades. Some ardent Oscar de la Renta followers might be skeptical, others might embrace it.
Plunging necklines bring seduction to the conservative lady, the color palette is spectacular- acid green, eggplant, and bright pink blend into black, silver, and red. An array of embroidered decorative patterns blossom and bloom, telling many stories. And although belted silhouettes bisect wrapped jackets, the collection’s overall softened look is untouched. Fur makes an appearance as accents on the daywear and the evening gowns are voluminous or voluptuous. Overall (and most importantly), the pieces still bear the brand’s quintessential elegance.
Is this all something transient? Will this become the mainstay? Only time will tell. Mr. de la Renta has said that he doesn’t like nostalgia, that one must always look forward. And if change is something good, for this time, it’s proven to be beautiful. | Giuseppe
pictures courtesy Giovanni Giannoni